36 Hours in Capetown Via NY Times Travel

36 Hours in Cape Town does a nice job of covering some of the not-to-be-missed sites and a few new places I'll check out next visit. In 36 hours one can only cover so much -- it takes about that time to acclimate to the time change! Lots more to learn about Cape Town and Surrounds and via Walking Tour

Riebeek Kasteel & Riebeek West Wine Valley

The Riebeek Wine Valley has a long history tracing back to the Huguenots. The early settlers arrived in the 1700's, establishing many prominent wine farms still in production today. A more recent crop that has brought visitors to the area is the olive, an industry only about 13 years old. While olive groves are plentiful, they were not tended to and the fruit was left to drop to the ground. In the late 90's 6 gentlemen, previously city dwellers and immigrants, traveled to Italy to be schooled in olive farming.

We visited one of the oldest wineries, Kloovenberg, which is as well-known for its wine as it is for its olives, olive oils and skin care products made with the rich emollient fruit. The Olive Boutique supplied a tasty variety of dried olives and olive chocolate (mixed with dried fruits and brandy) and the Goedgedacht charitable trust provides services to take rural children out of poverty and a community development center focused on climate change education.

Unlike the more established Stellenbosch or the quaint Franschhoek, the Riebeek Valley is still a bit more "mom and pop," making for an easy 1/2 day trip. The highlights were the olive tastings, the Royal Hotel (one of the oldest hotels in South Africa, recently refurbished to the highest standards) and Cafe Felix (an upmarket restaurant and cafe with a gorgeous menu).

From the Atlantic Ocean to the Indian Ocean

The Western Cape is bordered by two oceans, the Atlantic to the West and the Indian to the South. What you would notice here, versus the Pacific, is the color of the water - a luminescent blend of greens, blues and teals - and the emotional and thundering waves which never cease to inspire.

We began our scenic drive and beach landings along the Atlantic coast at Llandudno, a nearly private cove and upmarket suburb. While there are minimal attractions other than the white sand beach (no shops or city life), surfers do come for the waves. Around the bend is Sandy Bay, another secluded beach, where Little Lion's Head is in the shadow of this nudist beach.

From this stretch of coast, we drove into Hout Bay (also called the Republic of Hout Bay by residents who covet the limited access to their coastal community). One of the most dramatic cliff side drives from Chapman's Peak brings you along the majestic Bay where the Sentinel looms and fisherman bring their daily catch to local and nearby restaurants. We sampled fresh caught yellowtail and chips (french fries in the states).

Next stop is the seaside village of Kommetjie known for being one of Cape Town's hot surfing and kite surfing spots. The stretch of beach where surfers congregate continues through to Noordhoek. We stopped at the Slangkoppunt Lighthouse commissioned in 1914 to safeguard against shipwrecks on the rocky shore and in Scarborough, a quiet conservation village.

Leaving the Atlantic for the Indian Ocean, we passed through Cape Point without stopping off, as we'd spent heaps of time there 2 years ago. With some good timing, we came upon a private harbour where the fishermen bring their catch. It happened to be the end of their day as we arrived, and we observed them for a bit, cleaning and preparing.

Leaving the Indian Ocean, we traveled back inland and over the pass into Constantia to Groot Constantia for an afternoon tea and scones to conclude the day.

Goldfish Live at Kirstenbosch, Sunday March 7

Deep house grooves, vocals, hypnotic sampling and talent on live instruments.

More official photos thanks to Bernard: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2oceansvibe/sets/72157623576623708

Eating, Shopping & Exploring Woodstock, Cape Town, South Africa

We spent a few hours this morning on Albert Road in the up and coming industrial neighborhood of Woodstock, one of Cape Town's oldest suburbs. The main attraction is the Old Biscuit Mill renovated in 2006 with eco-conscious flavor and housing stationery shops, antique artefacts, clothing, jewelry, art, ceramics and other collectibles.

On Saturdays at the Mill, the Neighbourgoods Market takes place, featuring organic farmer's market produce, flowers, herbs, cheese, bread, honey and fresh prepared gastronomic delights for every taste including designer beer and curries to butternut frittata, young coconuts, acai smoothies, fair trade coffees, parisian macarons and coal fired pizza.

Find a spot on one of the long communal benches and it's elbow to elbow creatives, raw foodies, organic hippies and  tourists listening in the annex to the sounds of the DJ spinning or the French pop tuned in to the speakers in the main hall.

Local fashion and accessories designers have their own shade covered area as part of the Neighbourgoods Market. Here you can find hand crafted footwear, one-of-kind applique t-shirts, the finery of bespoke BlueCollarWhiteCollar or kidswear in the Kindergoods Market area.

Named one of the city's improvement districts, companies are incentified to locate to the Woodstock area and add to its vibrant culture. We visited in 2008 and since, the area has really emerged.

Vintage Dutch modern furniture and pottery can be found in some of the older shops, while a newer boutique mall (a renovated 1927 hotel that used to be a brothel) called the Bromwell offers curated objects to covet or buy via computers located in each well-dressed room for a self-guided shopping experience. Superette, Bread Cafe and Boulangerie, What if the World gallery and Weekend Special are noticeable amongst the still-delapadated storefronts.

We ran out of time to visit the art galleries on Sir Lowry Rd (including Raw Vision Gallery, owned by our friend Mike Fisher) and await a return visit early next week.

The Eponymous Collection to Launch: www.jeffreylevin.com

Props to Jeffrey!

A craftsman for 30 years, Jeffrey Levin has been handcrafting fine and designer jewelry, casting his unique handwriting in yellow, rose and white gold, while using sterling silver as a crossover metal. White, cognac (also known as chocolate) and black diamonds adorn his pieces.

Designed to be worn layered or alone, Jeffrey Levin’s jewelry are incredibly touchable, tactile pieces that go with everything. For the fine jewelry collector, in the Jeffrey Levin line he has refined and sophisticated offerings from pendants featuring crosses, hearts, daisy charms and other iconic classics, to single stone stacking rings, curved band stacking rings, pave diamond eternity bands, drop earrings, hoops and handmade link bracelets.

His Jeffrey Levin ndu collection blends sterling silver jewelry with rose gold and featuring tribal motifs inspired by his street style and African heritage. Black diamonds predominate, lending a bold and dramatic edge to these statement pieces.

Jeffrey Levin One is available for appointment-only custom jewelry commissions and will later feature vintage one-of-a-kind objects from around the world, remixed with new gems, Jeffrey’s own designs or handcrafted additions.

About Jeffrey Levin - Jeffrey Levin is defined by a breadth of talent and endeavors with popular jewelry brands Chrome Hearts, Dogeared, Gerard Yoska, 1928, Cathy Carmendy, Jane Bohan and Jolie’ Designs amongst others. As an entrepreneur, he partnered in both the Julez Bryant and u+i jewelry brands. These collections graced the covers and spreads of major fashion magazines such as WWD, Vogue, Elle, Madamoiselle and In Style and were carried in Neiman Marcus, Fred Segal Santa Monica, Barney’s New York, Louis Boston, Stanley Korshak as well as the Golden Bear and Sundance catalogs. As a good citizen, Jeffrey Levin is also defined by giving back. His company have adopted a sustainability accord that drives its business operations in addition to establishing relationships with charitable organizations who will benefit from cause specific product and donations.

Sign up for the launch: www.jeffreylevin.com

Follow Jeffrey on Twitter: http://twitter.com/JeffreyLevin

First Impressions

Nevermind that I missed my original flight from Heathrow to Cape Town because some guy jumped a fence and was running on the runway throwing rocks. After a bit of puppy-eyed negotiating, bypassing a trip though Jo-berg, I ultimately made it direct to CPT only 3 hours later. I was lucky, my luggage arrived late the next day...

From the airport we drove to Sea Point where Jeff grew up, one block from the Atlantic Ocean. At first, Cape Town looks like a coastal place, maybe similar to something European or Mediterranean. But you quickly realize it is much more than. As Jeff points out, the ocean here has constant movement and activity. The Pacific is passive. This has more energy.

And holy smokes, it is STUNNING. Where else are there two oceans that meet, surrounded by awesome mountain ranges! Layers of majestic mountain ranges. That far eclipse those I'm used to in California.

 

Table Mountain is awe inspiring. With the wind (something Capetonians accept as part of life, but in Sea Point it is far less imposing), there is a fury of cloud swirl over Table Mountain, which they call this cloud formation the Table Cloth. To me it looks like a cloud volcano. When the wind is fierce, the cable car does not run. It's been fierce most of the time I've been here. But let me say, if I have the courage to get on the Cableway which takes passengers 302m above sea level in a rounded revolving cable car, I'm sure it will be extraordinary!

For someone who loves food, Cape Town is a gastronomic experience! We went to a super cool organic market at the Biscuit Mill, a converted factory with shops and a Neighbourgoods Market. The Neighbourgoods Market is open on Saturdays with fresh and prepared foods, vintage furniture, designer clothing, and tables and tables of people convening over gourmet treats. So impressed! Met the market owner and general manager who are also running hotels under the name of Daddy Long Legs and "moving room" locations (with renovated Airstreams they are importing from the US, mostly from Florida).

The bread here is something very different than the American standard. All bread has more depth and flavor, whether it is the basic that you buy at the market or more gourmet. So my first egg sandwich at the Biscuit Mill gave me an extraordinary experience of this doughy and textural treat! I have also been introduced to my new favorite fish, Kingclip. It is a white, flakey, non-fishy thick fillet that I first ate at the lovely hotel about 20 minutes from Sea Point in Chapman's Peak, called the Chapman's Peak Hotel.

Everywhere, you see a lot of recycled product and some sustainability efforts. Jeff does explain that the recycled stuff is a matter of materials. This is all the poor have to work with. They are using what is around them and creating commerce. Some very innovative output and some just crafty stuff. The latter, you also see a lot of it being commoditized. Sold on the beach, on the streets in the street markets...Nonetheless, if it helps the poor and tribes make money, that's a good thing! Sustainability, I'm finding bits of. The guy that owns the Biscuit Mill is rennovating the Airstreams with all sustainable materials, there's an organic kids clothing store, recycling bins in some neighborhoods, some awareness of materials but definitely a place where survival is first and foremost so it will be the rich/elite that can afford to be sustainable in new architecture, new products, new fashion, etc.

To continue first impressions, I must move away from the gorgeous scenery and talk about S. Africa and the dimensions of the city here. I'm still making impressions as you must really be here a few weeks before you absorb the surrounds. The infrastructure of the city being so reliant on the non-whites is quite stark for an American. You also have to be on your game as there's a lot of manipulation. You basically pay meter-maids to park on the street, but it's not mandatory everywhere. But the asking is constant. And the people who sell on the beach and on the streets are quite the salesmen. You do get some sense of how people who have had their civil liberties taken away don't have much respect for life generally. I'm sure that's only seen in Cape Town on the surface and worse so in other places around Africa. Moving on.

Off to take a walk along the sea front toward the lighthouse. Jeff is on a 4 hour bike ride...